Ultima® Evo competition series Engines Instructions
Ultima® Evo competition series Engines Instructions
General Specifications 80” - 113”
1643 / 100.2
1751 / 106.8
1853 / 113.1
|Cam Lift: Int||.520”||.625”||.640”|
|Cam Lift: Ex||520”||.600”||.600”|
|Cam Duration||262 / 272||248||264 / 268|
|Piston||Forged Dome||Forged Dome||Forged Dome|
|Case Deck Height||5.875||5.875||5.875|
|Flywheel||Forged 5Pc||Forged 5Pc||Forged 5Pc|
|Case Spigot bore||4.255”||4.255”||4.255”|
|Breather Type||92/L (NOTE 1)||92/L (NOTE 1)||92/L (NOTE 1)|
|Cam Cover Type||84/89||84/89||84/89|
|Rocker Box Type||93/L||93/L||93/L|
|Rocker Arm/ Ratio||1.7||1.7||1.7|
|Engine Height||.010” Taller||.010” Taller||.010” Taller|
|Rated power RW||110hp / 110tq||115hp / 115tq||120hp / 120tq|
|Engine Weight||165 Lb||165 Lb||165 Lb|
Ultima® engines are supplied with 93/L breathers operating but the early 84/92 system is present but plugged.
General Specifications 120” - 140”
1976 / 120.6
2092 / 127.7
2305 / 140.6
|Cam Lift: Int||.640”||.640”||.640”|
|Cam Lift: Ex||.600”||.600”||.600”|
|Cam Duration||264 / 268||264 / 268||268 / 272|
|Pushrod Length||+.250 Longer||+.250 Longer||+.500 Longer|
|Piston||Forged Flat||Forged Flat||Forged Flat|
|Case Deck Height||5.975||5.975||6.152|
|Flywheel||Forged 3 Pc||Forged 3 Pc||Forged 3 Pc|
|Case Spigot bore||4.500”||4.500”||4.625”|
|Breather Type||92/L (NOTE 1)||92/L (NOTE 1)||92/L (NOTE 1)|
|Cam Cover Type||84/89 Ultima®||84/89 Ultima®||84/89 Ultima®|
|Rocker Box Type||93/L||93/L||93/L|
|Rocker Arm/ Ratio||1.7||1.7||1.7|
|Engine Height||.125” Taller||.125” Taller||.625” Taller|
|Rated power RW||130hp / 135tq**||140hp / 145tq**||160hp / 175tq**|
|Engine Weight||168 Lb||168 Lb||170 Lb|
Ultima® engines are supplied with 92/L breathers operating but the early 84/91 system is present but plugged.
** Horsepower ratings on 120, 127 and 140 will be lower if the ‘G’ Carb or 45mm Mikuni is used without modification or replaced by a larger bore Carburetor. Horsepower ratings on all Engines will also be greatly affected by Exhaust systems selected.
Ultima® Engines should be installed by a trained professional mechanic into a motorcycle for which its use was intended. Failure to do so may result in injury and even death. It is the customer’s responsibility to insure their mechanic has proper training.
Fitment and Clearance Issues:
Every effort has been made to insure these engines will install into most available frame models without modifications. Some of the known fitment issues we have encountered are listed below. Please read these carefully as they will aid in installation.
OFitment Issues: All Crank Cases
- Ultima® crank cases are designed to fit most OEM motorcycles built from 1984-1999 using Evolution® style engines. On rubber mounted engines please check that the front engine mount bracket weld or tab does not interfere with the case before final torque of the engine mount bolts — clearance the bracket if needed.
- On most FXR® or bikes using midshift controls it may be necessary to clearance the case for the inner shift arm.
Fitment Issues: Cylinder 100-107-113-120-127 Ci
- On some frames using offset engines and forward controls it may be necessary to space the inner shift arm or the shifter mounting bracket away from the front cylinder fins to provide adequate clearance between the shift arm or rod and the cylinder fins.
Fitment Issues: Cylinder Heads 100-107-113-120-127 Ci
- If installing these engines into a Stock Style Softail® type frames it will be necessary to relocate the coil and bracket.
Fitment Issues: All 140 Ci
- The Ultima® 140 Ci engines are over 5/8” taller than a stock engine. These engines will fit in most Ultima® frames but other aftermarket manufactured frames must be checked for fitment. All fitment issues for 113Ci thru 127 Ci engines apply to the 130 Ci and 140 Ci. The Ultima® 140 Ci will require VERY heavy duty drive train components.
Oil Pump Fittings Identification:
Ultima® engines use a 1992 & later style oil pump as shown in Figure 2.
- The feed line is mounted in the center of the outer cover of the pump and is pointing up.
- The return line is mounted to the very bottom of the outer cover and is pointed forward. This line goes to the Filter Input. See Figure 5.
- The Crank case vent is mounted to the engine case just above the oil pump.
- The feed line can be moved by removing the plug at the bottom of the outer pump cover and reinstalling the fittings.
Oil Line Routing
Tank cutaway shows the oil line identification for Stock FXST® type tanks and Ultima® brand FXST® type oil tanks.
Tank cutaway shows the oil line identification for Ultima® brand round oil tanks.
As you can see, both tanks have an internal return line that goes to the far side of the tank to improve oil circulation. If you are using this type of tank you must have the return line connected to the correct fitting. NEVER ASSUME YOUR OIL TANK IS CLEAN ENOUGH.
|THESE LINES MUST BE CONNECTED PROPERLY TO THE OIL TANK AND FILTER HOUSING OR ENGINE FAILURE CAN OCCUR!!!|
For the first 500 miles of operation we recommend using high quality petroleum based API service SJ rated motor oils, such as Ultima 20W50, MW# 103-114. The oil’s viscosity should be matched with the climate conditions but in most cases Ultima 20w50 motor oil will work fine. After initial break-in (over 500 miles) we recommend using Ultima full synthetic motor oil, MW#103-115.
All Ultima® engines require oil filters.
Oil filter mounting bolts are located on the right side of the engine case made to accept 92/99 FXST® style filter mounts. When using this type of filter housing make sure the lines are routed as shown in Figure 5. Any of our high quality 40 Micron Ultima® filters can be used with any style of filter mount.
Ultima recommends oil coolers in applications where heavy loads are pulled or ambient temperatures exceed 90˚F or oil temps exceed 210˚F. When choosing an oil cooler, it is best to choose one that is finned & forward mounted on the frame. When using oil coolers in cold temperatures, either install a thermostat or a cover to insure the oil temperature makes it to a minimum operating temperature of 150˚F.
Charging system selection
Ultima® engines are supplied with MW part #98-360 main seal spacer for use with 32 amp charging systems. This spacer was used on most 19 through 32 amp-charging systems supplied on Shovelhead® and Evolution® engines (except 1995 & later FLT®). If you use a higher output 38, 40 or 44 amp system you must change the spacer to that system’s specific spacer or the Stator Rotor will contact the crankcase. You will also have to replace the engine main seal, MW# 95-805. All charging systems are available through Midwest Motorcycle Supply.
Compression Release Valves 100-107-113-120-127-140 CI
All Ultima® 100 CI and larger engines are supplied with manually operated push button compression release valves. These valves aid in starting your engine and can greatly increase your starter and battery life. To operate these simply depress the Top Cap as shown in Figure 1 and they will pop back up automatically once the engine is cranking. These are designed to help the starter to begin spinning the engine by providing a small bypass hole to relieve compression as the engine is rotated. When the cylinder pressure overcomes the CR valves spring tension it automatically shuts. After prolonged use valves can become sticky and closing can be slow. A slight blip of the throttle while the engine is running should shut the valves immediately.
PCV System and Rocker Boxes:
All Ultima® engines are designed to use 1993 & later style PCV systems (Rocker Boxes). Proper installation and free operation of the Cylinder Head Vent lines are very important to your engine’s oiling system and overall performance. We recommend using only this late style breather system and not opening the lower case breathers, which come plugged from the factory.
Clutch and Driveline Considerations:
When installing any performance engine you should consider upgrading your clutch and inspecting or replacing your Primary Chain and adjuster. Increased power levels and aggressive riding styles can cause stock or worn components to fail or work poorly and they may need to be upgraded. Ultima® recommends Midwest part#96-730 high performance clutch for use on 98’-06’ HD® chassis & Midwest part#96-731 for use on 90’-97’ HD® chassis. For custom applications, Ultima® recommends using industry proven Ultima® belt drives.
When installing a performance engine selecting the proper gearing is very important in achieving the performance levels you desire. In many cases engines with less power that are geared properly can outperform more powerful engines that are geared poorly for particular applications. Another important factor is gross vehicle weight. Motorcycles that are heavy should not be geared with highway gears and a Six Speed unless the engine used is very, very powerful. On these types of bikes a 3.2-3.37 ratio will give much better acceleration. On most late model motorcycles the factory gearing is a good choice for all around riding. In lighter bikes we recommend a 2.92 to 3.15 overall ratio for highway riding. On heavier bikes used for highway riding or lighter bikes wanting quick acceleration for around town riding use 3.23 to 3.37 overall ratio. The following rpm/mph figures are based on a rear tire diameter of 26” or 12.5” from the ground to the center of your axle. Changing tire diameter 1” = approx. 2.6 mph.
When installing a performance engine selecting the proper gearing is very important in achieving the performance levels you desire. In many cases, engines with less power that are geared properly can outperform more powerful engines that are geared poorly for particular applications. Another important factor is gross vehicle weight. Motorcycles that are heavy should not be geared with highway gears and a Six Speed unless the engine used is very, very powerful. On these types of bikes a 3.2-3.37 ratio will give much better acceleration. On most late model motorcycles the factory gearing is a good choice for all around riding. In lighter bikes we recommend a 2.92 to 3.15 overall ratio for highway riding. On heavier bikes used for highway riding or lighter bikes wanting quick acceleration for around town riding use 3.23 to 3.37 overall ratio. The following rpm/mph figures are based on a rear tire diameter of 26” or 12.5” from the ground to the center of your axle. Changing tire diameter 1” = approx. 2.6 mph.
Some common gear ratios are:
Stock 1995 FLH®
|36t clutch basket divided by 25t engine sprocket = 1.44||1.44 x 2.19 = 3.15 overall|
|70t rear pulley divided by 32t transmission pulley = 2.19||3000 rpm @ 74mph|
Stock 1995 Softails®
|36t clutch basket divided by 25t engine sprocket = 1.44||1.44 x 2.03 = 2.92 overall|
|65t rear pulley divided by 32t transmission pulley = 2.03||3000 rpm @ 79mph|
Stock 1991 all models
|37t clutch basket divided by 24t engine sprocket = 1.54||1.54 x 2.19 = 3.37 overall|
|70t rear pulley divided by 32t transmission pulley = 2.19||3000 rpm @ 69mph|
Ultima® belt drives with chain rear
|71t clutch basket divided by 45t engine pulley = 1.6||1.6 x 2 = 3.20 overall|
|48t rear sprocket divided by 24t transmission sprocket = 2||3000 rpm@ 73mph|
Exhaust System Selection
Ultima® engines can be very exhaust-system sensitive and proper selection of exhaust system will yield the highest power levels. When selecting exhaust systems avoid large diameter pipes that do not have a smaller primary pipe that exits the head for at least 4-8” and avoid installing torque cones as these were made for small cubic inch engines (80ci-96ci). Overall the owner’s satisfaction of the selected pipe is most important but it can also have a negative effect on rated power levels. For peak power levels a good stepped exhaust (1-3/4” Primary 4”-8” long to 2” pipe 12”-16” long to 2-1/4” pipe for the balance) drag pipe 32”-38” long will yield the highest numbers. For all around rideability select a free flowing staggered dual muffler set or the 2 into 1 systems. There are many exhaust systems out there with just as many opinions on what works. We recommend Ultima® step tuned competition exhaust and Ultima® 2 into 1 exhaust systems for the best results.
Starter and Battery Considerations
Ultima® 100 thru 113 CI configurations will typically have no starting problems when using components with comparable power ratings as used on OEM motorcycles built after 1989. Ultima® starters, batteries & battery cables are recommended when upgrading from the stock components. Typically an Ultima Thunderfire® starter with a 1.4 to 1.75kw rating when used with an Ultima® AGM battery & high quality Ultima® cables will give the best performance on our 80 thru 113CI engines. An Ultima Thunderfire® starter with a 2.0 to 2.4kw rating when used with an Ultima® AGM battery & high quality Ultima® cables will give the best performance on our 120, 127, & 140CI engines.
Ultima® Thundervolt AGM high power batteries
Ultima® premium battery cables
Ultima® Thunderfire high output starters
All complete assembled Ultima® engines come with an Ultima Fixed Curve Single Fire Ignition System (by Dynatek) with advance Curves and the Rev Limiter preset from the factory and do not require further adjustment. Rev limiter is set at 6,000 RPM. Modifying or tampering with the ignition settings during the engines warranty period will result in your warranty being void.
|Do not use a VOES switch on any Ultima® motor. Use of a VOES switch will void engine warranty.|
|Total coil primary resistance must be in the range of 2.5 to 3.5 ohms.|
|When using a dual coil arrangement each coil’s primary resistance must not exceed 1.5 ohms for a combined resistance of 3 ohms|
|Carbon, graphite or spiral core type suppression spark plug wires are required. Do not use metal core wires. Ultima® high performance spark plug wires w/300 ohms of resistance per foot produce the best results when using an Ultima® ignition system.|
|This Ultima Ignition requires the gold colored timing rotor used on 1983 and later EVO® motors (Midwest part no. 53-14). The earlier silver colored cup will not work properly. Bikes originally equipped with points (except distributors) or early electronic ignition will accept the later model cup without modification.|
DO NOT USE A VOES SWITCH ON ANY ULTIMA® MOTOR. USE OF A VOES SWITCH WILL VOID ENGINE WARRANTY.
Setting Aftermarket Ignition Systems
These instructions are provided for professional mechanics when replacing the OEM Ultima® fixed curved ignitions after warranty, or for proper settings when assembling long blocks only. Installing aftermarket ignitions during the warranty period on any Ultima® competition series engines will void your warranty. (For Total Timing use the information supplied in this book and not from any ignition manufacturer other than Ultima®.)
Ultima® Engines are supplied with 4 reference timing marks on the flywheel to identify crankshaft location when viewed through the timing hole plug. These marks are as follows:
Mark 1. =
|(T:F) Top Dead Center on the Front cylinder — The TDC mark is used for most electronic ignitions as the reference point to begin the static timing process. When using this mark for timing you must be on the compression stroke on the front cylinder and both valves should be closed. This mark is also used when checking total timing with a Dial Back type timing light.|
Mark 2. =
|(NOTE 1) Advanced Timing mark for the front cylinder — This mark is used for ignitions that have mechanical advance weights as the reference point to begin the static timing process. (You must still rotate the point cam or trigger rotor to full advance to use this mark and static time properly.)|
This mark is also the reference when using a regular timing light to check total timing for all ignitions. When checking timing with a light you must use the front cylinder plug wire and turn off any multi spark functions your ignition may have. You must also rev the engine high enough to bring the system to full advance to check properly. Some ignitions have very slow curves that may require you to rev the engine to 5000 rpm before it gets to full advance. We do not recommend these. Instead we prefer to select a point from the manufacturers’ advertised curve at 3000 to 3500 rpm max to verify this type of curve. This can give you an idea of how close the curve is to advertised data. On larger cubic inch engines the total timing is very important to engine life and performance. If your ignition does not meet the advertised curve be very cautious and replace or reset the part immediately.
Mark 3. =
|(R) (NOTE 1) Advanced timing mark for Rear Cylinder. This mark is only a reference and is rarely used for ignition timing. Some ignitions offer an adjustment for rear cylinder and front cylinder timing spreads where this mark can be useful. An example of this is a Dyna S single fire ignition and Crane HI4. We recommend you verify the rear cylinder timing if using these ignitions.|
Mark 4. =
|( ● ) TDC on the rear cylinder. This mark is rarely used for ignition timing and is only listed as a reference for professional engine builders or when checking timing on the rear cylinder with a dial back type timing light.|
All 100-113 Ci engines have 30˚ reference marks and 120-140Ci configurations use 25˚ reference marks.
Range of timing hole: Shown with Mark (2). When timing an engine with a 30˚ mark on the flywheel, if the mark is to the front of the hole the total timing is Retarded to 26 degrees. If the mark is to the rear of the hole the total timing is advanced to 34 degrees. When in the center of the hole this mark represents 30 degrees of advance for the front cylinder. This can also be useful when using certain ignitions on larger engines where the slowest curve still advances the timing past the recommendations below. Many Electronic Ignitions have good curves but with too much total timing. You can retard the base timing and change the entire curve by moving the TDC mark to the Retard side of the timing hole prior to the static timing process to make the advertised curve produce the desired total timing. When setting the timing on any engine we recommend using a timing light to verify the ignition timing is accurate.
Initial timing of the ignition system
|Total Timing @ Full Advance||30 - 32||30 - 32||30 - 32||25 - 28||25 - 28||24 - 26|
With the variety of ignitions available it is difficult to explain this process for all ignitions. If you do not have instructions for your ignition please contact the manufacturer and get this important information.
On ignitions such as Ultima®, Dyna 2000 and Compu-Fire that have adjustable advance curves, do not select the most aggressive curves for break in. On some Ignitions only a few curves offered will provide the proper timing at full advance and some will advance more than 26-28 degrees on the least aggressive curve. If you cannot get the full advance timing needed, shown in the chart above, you will need to retard the base timing the amount needed or replace the unit with one that has the proper total timing at full advance. We have found in most cases these Ultima Shovelhead engines will accept full timing before 2500 rpm and this is the best choice for most engines. If you have excessive Spark Knock or detonation go to a slower curve, Colder Spark Plug, Richer Jets or better fuel. Whatever tuning you need to do to get rid of this condition must be done. Higher elevations typically require more advance timing than lower elevations. Use the chart above for the range to stay within.
If you have any doubt that your timing is not set correctly or that your ignition system may be faulty have it checked by a professional Mechanic and bring this booklet in for their reference.
A fter your engine’s break in procedure has been strictly adhered to we recommend that you have your engine dyno tuned with timing and advance curves set for optimum performance and reliability.
Example for settings on Ultima & Dyna 2000i Programmable Ignitions
- Follow the Manufacturers instruction to set the Static timing and understand the instructions. Make sure you have the engine on TDC (TF on the Flywheel) on the Front Cylinder on the compression stroke before you begin.
- Set the ignition to the Normal VOES mode but do not install the VOES switch. Instead tape up the wire (violet) — Do NOT Ground this wire.
- Set the Rev Limit to Minimum for Break-in. (Switch 4 & 5 off)
- Look in the Manufacturers instructions at the Curves produced by the ignition when in the Normal VOES mode. Look at the curves you will get when no VOES switch is present. The instructions show 4 different advance curves for this scenario. Select the curve with the proper total timing shown in this book for your engine size. Ultima Ignitions have preset curves for each engine size and will get you close by static timing the engine at TDC. Dyna 2000 Ignitions will require you to modify the base timing on most engines so the total advance is not too excessive. Refer to “Range of timing hole”, earlier in this booklet. Read and understand ignition manufacturer settings before running your engine. Both Ultima and Dyna 2000 2KI Ignitions can be custom programmed using a tuners kit.
During break-in we suggest setting Rev Limiters to the lowest setting (5,500 or less) to insure over revving will not occur. Most Ultima® engines will not produce power beyond 6,000 rpm and little if anything is gained by revving these engines past this rpm when in the stock configuration. A major contributor to a shortened engine life is high RPM.
Spark plugs Recommendations:
There are a variety of spark plug manufacturers who make the proper style and heat range plugs for these engines. While OEM H-D® plug heat ranges will work perfect in most cases on our smaller engines, we recommend using a colder heat range plug on some 113 CI engines pulling heavy loads and all 120, 127 and 140 CI engines. Engines that have excessive spark knock may require a colder heat range and or richer air/fuel mixtures and retard the timing. We also recommend using the coldest plug your combination/environment and fuel will allow for best overall engine life and performance. Plugs that are too cold may foul easily under certain conditions and plugs that are too hot can cause spark knock and detonation. Some popular manufacturers and heat ranges are listed below. Also consider that many manufacturers offer the same heat range plug with a 13/16 hex or a 5/8 hex. If you prefer the 5/8 hex for example in a Champion RN11YC you need to change to a RC11YC for this option. Follow your plug manufacturer’s recommendations for proper plug gap.
|Ultima® Engine|| |
12mm Colder Plug
14mm Colder Plug
14mm Mid Heat Plug
14 mm Hotter
|NGK||DCPR7E||BPR6ES||BPR6ES||FR4* / BP5EA|
Carburetors and Initial Tuning
Your Ultima® engine has been supplied with an Ultima® R1 Performance Carburetor that will require initial setting to be made prior to Initial startup. Typically higher elevations or hotter climates will require different jetting and ignition timing than those shown in this guideline. At any elevation it is important that your initial tune is not excessively rich, which is indicated by excessive black smoke, and equally important, avoid running the engine lean for the initial break in as this condition creates heat fast. Prior to starting your engine you should check your carburetor’s initial idle mixture setting and fuel pump setting recommended by the manufacturer. Ultima® provides the proper base line jetting for each engines size but idle mixture and fuel pump setting must be done on an individual basis. When selecting the initial jetting for your engine remember that exhaust systems and ignition settings can have a great effect on the engine’s fuel demands. An experienced tuner should make the final decision for your particular jetting and timing needs with your combination and at your elevation. Thoroughly read and understand your carburetor instructions before installing it or starting your engine.
Baseline Jetting Suggestions
|100 CI||107 CI||113 CI||120 CI||127 CI||140 CI|
|Ultima R1||76 / 29.5||78 / 29.5||78 / 31||80 /31||84 / 31||-|
|Mikuni 42mm||165 / 22.5||165 / 22.5||170 / 25||-||-||-|
|Mikuni 45mm||170 / 22.5||170 / 22.5||175 / 27.5||185 / 32.5||185 / 32.5||-|
|Mikuni 48mm||-||-||175 / 25||185 / 32.5||190 / 35||195 / 40.0|
|S&S ‘G’||76 / 29.5||78 / 29.5||78 / 31||80 / 31||84 / 31||-|
|S&S ‘D’||-||-||82 / 31||84 / 33||88 / 33||92 / 36|
START UP AND BREAK IN RECOMMENDATIONS
To give your engine maximum life and performance please read these recommendations thoroughly. These recommendations are assuming that your engine has been installed by a professional mechanic and all aspects of proper engine installation have been addressed.
Some things that you should not do prior to starting your engine are:
- N ever assume your oil tank is clean enough:
Oil is your engine’s life blood and installing a new engine in a motorcycle that has not had the oil system (tank, cooler, filter housing) thoroughly cleaned with new oil lines installed is definitely something not to do. All new tanks and coolers should be inspected and cleaned prior to installation.
- N ever assume your oil lines are on correctly:
Double check that your feed line, return line and crank case vent line are routed to their proper fittings. If you are unsure contact the components manufacturer or professional mechanic for proper routing.
- N ever run your engine without an oil filter installed. Oil filters prolong engine life and are a must for performance engines.
Priming the oil system prior to Start-up
All engines should be checked for oil pressure prior to start up. Oil pressure should be visible at the top end feed screen plug, which is located to the rear of the rear lifter block on the cam cover side. See Figure 7.
To verify that you have pressure before running your engine follow these steps:
Make sure you have filled your oil tank with clean engine oil and no oil lines are crimped.
- Remove the top end feed screen plug.
- Disconnect all wires from the coil.
- Remove spark plugs from engine.
- With the motorcycle in neutral, turn on the ignition and crank the engine in 5 second intervals until oil pressure is present at the top end feed screen plug. If oil pressure is not visible repeat this process until oil is present. After oil is present reinstall the top end feed screen plug.
- Continue to crank the engine for approx. 20 seconds total. You will now have oil to the lifters and can start the engine.
If you have difficulty priming your engine’s oil pump you can remove the oil pump’s check ball (see Figure 7) and fill the check ball cavity with engine oil and then reinstall the check ball. By doing this you are removing air pockets in the pump and flooding the pump’s feed gears with oil. Generally this will greatly speed the priming process.
High quality fuel will have a direct effect on your engine’s performance. Ultima® engines are designed to run on a Minimum of 92 octane fuel. Higher octane fuels will be beneficial to your engine only up to a point and above about 100-105 octane you can lose performance as the engine’s fuel requirements and ignition timing requirements with these fuels will change. Search out the best fuels in your area. There are large variations in fuel quality nationwide.
Initial Start Up
One of the most important parts of the break-in procedure is the initial starting of your engine!!!!
- Remove the Air Filter Cover.
- Twist the throttle wide open and make sure that the fuel pump is working.
- Give the engine 2 full fuel squirts and full enrichment or choke.
- Leave the throttle shut and start the engine.
Upon start of the engine, immediately set the idle at approx. 1000-1200 rpm and let the engine idle while initial idle mixture or air bleed settings are adjusted, if needed, to allow the engine to idle properly.
Some of the things you should not do to a new engine are:
- Do not start the engine without first going though the oil pump/lifter priming process described earlier.
- Do not start the engine without a large fan pointed at the engine and on its highest setting.
- Do not rev the engine or blip the throttle repeatedly.
- Do not let the engine idle for long periods.
While these things may seem unimportant please consider that new engines create much more heat than engines that have been broke in. Remember these are Air Cooled engines.
On the initial start we recommend letting the engine run approx. 2 minutes then letting it cool before repeating this procedure. Do overall checks before restarting. Do not over heat the engine! For each 2 minute cycle, run the engine at idle 10-15 seconds then at 2000-2600 rpm for 10-15 seconds. Check and verify that your engine has adequate oil pressure and is returning oil to the oil tank. After you have run the engine for approx. 4-5 minutes, verify that no intake air leaks or oil leaks are present.
Do not let the engine get excessively hot! You can now TAKE YOUR FIRST RIDE!
Break-in procedures for Ultima® Engines
Follow these guidelines closely or you may void your warranty.
Avoid over heating your engine!!!!!!!!!!!
The heat of a new engine can be directly related to engine rpm, load and friction.
Do not lug the engine. If you have a 6-speed transmission do not run your bike in 6th gear during break-in. We strongly recommend you keep the engine rpm above 2400 and below 3500 rpm for the first 500 miles and run the engine at varying speeds. Setting the Idle at a minimum of 900-1100 rpm during break–in is desired.
Short trips under 10 miles and not in traffic on the first 2 rides are preferred. Try to ride on cool evenings and do not idle the bike very long. Keep air moving around the engine to keep it cool. Making the next 3-4 trips fewer than 30 miles will help to keep the heat down. When taking your initial rides on your new engine do so riding solo to avoid lugging the engine. If the engine feels like it is getting excessively hot shut it down and let it cool. Typical engine oil operating temperatures are 165°F-205°F degrees and should not be exceeded.
If an engine overheats during break-in due to improper ignition timing, improper jetting, or excessive heat you can collapse or (stick) a piston which may not be covered under warranty.
During the first 500 miles of operation we highly recommend running the engines on open road at varying engine speeds. If you have an oil temperature gauge try to keep your engine oil temperature below 200°F degrees even after break-in.
For the first 1000-1500 miles you should monitor your engine temperature and always avoid prolonged idling or sitting in traffic. If you get stuck in traffic pull over and take a break. Do not break-in your engine at Daytona or Sturgis or any other rally.
After 2000 miles avoid running your engine above 5500 rpm and if your ignition has a rev limiter, set it to work at this RPM. In most stock Ultima® engines no additional power is made above 5500 rpm and running the engines at these higher rpm’s will only shorten engine life especially on poorly tuned engines.
Break-In Service and Hardware Re-torquing
With a new engine we feel the first oil/filter change should occur after the first 50-100 miles and all cover bolts and engine-mounting bolts should be checked for proper torque. Keeping your engine oil clean is very important to the overall life of the engine. During the Break-In, or look at it as the “Wear-In” period, engines produce very small metallic pieces that need a good filter to remove them. We do not recommend extremely fine 10-micron filters (Twin Cam®) as they can clog quickly and begin to by-pass oil instead of filtering it. Use the 40 Micron (EVO style) Filters during break-in and for the life of the engine. Ultima® recommends Ultima® Oil Filters, some examples are Midwest part# 25-78 & 25-79. Checking cover bolts and engine mounting bolts is just good preventative maintenance during this period. See torque specifications on the following page for specifications.
After your engine’s break-in procedure has been strictly adhered to, we recommend that you have your engine dyno tuned for optimum performance. Typically a new engine will have different fuel demands than an engine that has been through the break-in procedure and additional tuning may be required for optimal performance.
Below you will find a list of common issues we have encountered with new engine installations. If you do not see your problem or cannot resolve one of these problems please contact your dealer for more information.
Engine Won’t Start
Common causes: 1. No fuel supply. 2. No spark. 3. Engine has been flooded.
When trying to start the engine for the first time, and it is difficult, you need to verify that you have compression, fuel and spark. If you remove the air filter cover and give the throttle 1-2 full turns prior to starting you can see if the accelerator pump is working properly and that fuel is being delivered. Please refer to the carburetor manufacturers instruction on how to set the accelerator pump. After you give the engine a few squirts from the accelerator pump, give it a full enrichment or choke for best initial starting and do this with the throttle closed. Do not keep twisting the throttle if the engine does not start. Stop and evaluate the problem or you can Gas Foul the spark plugs. If no spark is present verify all connections and contact the ignition manufacturer for technical help.
Oil blowing out of Lower End/Case Breather Vent:
- Oil tank is over filled.
- Oil Tank vent lines and return lines are crossed.
- Oil filter lines are crossed or plugged.
- Filter has a check valve and lines are crossed (this will sometimes cause the filter to burst).
Typically this problem occurs when either the engine is not returning oil or the crankcase vent is not open to the oil tank. The most common cause is when Softail® style tanks are used and get over filled. Do not fill these tanks up to the bottom of the filler. Most tanks have oil lines internally that bring the vent and return to the top side so it will be in airspace and not immersed in oil which is very important to be correct. Some tanks have the return side routed to the far side of the tank to improve oil circulation. These tanks must have the return line on the proper hose barb or when they are hooked up as a vent they can be immersed in oil when on the kickstand which can also cause the problem. Also be careful of oil filter housings. If you have over filled your oil tank and have this problem you must drain the engine’s crankcase before refilling. Ultima® Cases have a drain plug located at the bottom of the engine and you can drain the case if needed. When refilling the oil tank only put in about 2.5-3 quarts before starting the engine and add additional oil cautiously. Unfortunately it is hard to say how much oil your tank will hold without this happening again so if you experience this be precise on the amount you add to your tank on the refill during oil changes. We have seen some aftermarket housings that were not drilled from the factory causing the return side to be completely blocked. We have also seen directional filters, which will only work with oil flowing in the proper direction. Be sure that your filter and housing are routed properly and passages are not blocked.
Excessive lifter noise
- Engine was not properly primed prior to start-up.
- No oil feed to lifters.
- Improper pushrod adjustment.
- Oil lines are not connected properly.
If you have excessive lifter noise at start-up shut the engine off immediately and go through the priming process described earlier in this document. Ultima® engines are primed from the factory but if no oil is being fed from the oil pump the lifters will lose their prime quickly. Engines that are run with dry lifters are at risk to bend pushrods and can have permanent damage. Always check the pressure when diagnosing this with a quality pressure gauge reading from the oil-sending unit feed hole located behind the rear lifter block. Refer to Figure 3 and 4, in the “Oil Line Routing” heading earlier in this booklet, or your oil tank’s manufacturer regarding oil line connections to your tank if you are unsure. If you hook the oil lines up wrong you can damage the engine!! A good rule of thumb is the feed line is the lowest fitting in the oil tank and will pick up oil from the bottom of the tank. The vent line is the highest fitting and oil should never be able to reach the line inside the tank. The vent line has to be in airspace in the tank and never immersed in oil. The return line is also a fitting mounted high in the tank and can work in or out of the oil in the tank but should also be in airspace.
Lifter Adjustment procedure for Ultima® Engines
When performing any service work always disconnect the battery!!!
Remove the spark plugs and pushrod tube clips to access the pushrods. With a stable lift get the rear wheel of the bike off of the ground and put the bike in 5th gear. Use the rear wheel to rotate the engine slowly.
Never rotate the engine with the Starter motor while adjusting pushrods.
- Rotate the engine until you are on the compression stroke for the cylinder you are adjusting. This occurs after the cylinder to be adjusted has had its Intake lifter go to full lift and back to Zero lift during forward rotation of the engine. At this time the piston will be coming up and both valves will be closed at Top Dead Center. Put the piston at the very top of its stroke ( TDC). You can now adjust both pushrods for that cylinder.
- Loosen both pushrods until there is play between the lifter and pushrod.
- With your Fingers rotate the adjuster until there is no play between the lifter and pushrod (zero lash) but with no load on the lifter.
- Extend the adjuster another 3 full turns beyond zero lash and lock the jam nut tight. (This applies to pushrods with 18 threads per inch. If the pushrods are not the stock Ultima® pushrods use the manufacturer’s recommended setting.)
- Wait until you can turn both of the pushrods with your fingers (30 seconds to 15 minute wait). You can then roll the engine over and repeat the process for the next cylinder. Do not roll the engine before you can turn the pushrods by hand or you can cause damage to the engine. The engine should rotate and not want to stop at any point when adjusting pushrods. If the engine wants to stop at any point do not force the rotation. Stop and reset that pushrod or you can cause damage to the engine.
- Repeat this procedure for the remaining pushrod for that cylinder.
General Torque Specs and Adjustments
Rocker Box Bolts L
| Lower (1/4-20 120-140 In Lb)|
(5/16-18 15-22 Ft Lb)
Upper 80-120 In lb
|Antiseize or Lubricated Thread and bolt washer — Torque in 5 steps — twice per sequence. Torque in X Pattern.|
(1) 60 In Lb
(2) 10 ft Lb
(3) 20 Ft Lb
(4) 28-30 Ft Lb
(5) 40-42 Ft Lb
|3 full turns extended beyond zero lash using Crane or Ultima® Speedrods® pushrods.|
Cam Cover/Lifter Block
|1/4-20 bolts 120-150 In Lb|
Oil Pump Bolts
|120-140 In Lb|
|All 5/16-18 bolts 14-18 Ft Lb|
Torque 1/4-20 bolt last 90-110 In Lb
Inner Primary to Engine
|22-25 Ft Lb|
Alternator Plug Retainer
|Use anaerobic Sealant — Tighten to flush with Case Machined surface and Stake|
Engine Sprocket Bolt
|150-165 Ft Lb|
Motor Mount bolts
|34-38 Ft Lb|
|18-20 Ft Lb|
|108-130 In Lb|