Baker Drivetrain Hydraulic Side Covers For Factory 6-speed Installation Instructions

Baker Drivetrain Hydraulic Side Covers For Factory 6-speed Installation Manual

FITMENT

• CD6, Cruise Drive Models (P/N DD7-106C-KIT)
• 2006-2017 Dyna®
• 2007-2017 Softail®
• 2007-2016 Touring


• M8, Milwaukee-Eight® Models (P/N M8-106C-KIT)
• 2018 - Later Softail®
• 2017 - Later Touring

INCLUDED PARTS FOR P/N M8-106C-KIT

1x - Center rod, clutch release, P/N 37088-90 1x - Adjuster screw, clutch, P/N 9P235-56
1x - Clutch release plate, P/N 37903-90
1x - Jam nut, 7/16-20, P/N 36258
1x - Retaining ring, 1-7/8”, P/N 68065
2x - Nut, mainshaft, countershaft, P/N 7340BD 1x - Hydraulic adapter line, P/N 434-RV17
1x - Banjo bolt, 3/8-24, P/N 41747-82A
2x - Washer, banjo bolt, P/N 41731-01

BAKER DRIVETRAIN CD6 HYDRAULIC SIDE COVER

FIGURE 1 | CD6 HYDRAULIC SIDE COVER

BAKER M8 HYDRAULIC SIDE COVER

FIGURE 2 | M8 HYDRAULIC SIDE COVER

WHAT DO I NEED?

REQUIRED PARTS, TOOLS, & REFERENCE MATERIALS

• Factory Service Manual for your year and model motorcycle
• Common hand tools (allen wrenches, sockets, retaining ring pliers, etc.)
• Torque wrenches, 3/8” & 1/2" drive
• Red & blue thread lock
• Brake bleeder pump if available
• Transmission fluid, 28-32 oz.
• BAKER recommends Spectro Heavy Duty Platinum 6-Speed Transmission Oil; P/N BD-75140-32
• Hydraulic brake fluid for your make and model
• 2006-07 Models – DOT 5
• 2008-Later Models – DOT 4
• See brake fluid compatibility chart ↓

ADDITIONAL PARTS FOR NON-M8 MODELS

All BAKER hydraulic actuators are designed to use mechanical ball and ramp components for the center rod that goes through the transmission mainshaft, as well as the release plate, adjuster screw, jam nut and retaining ring that are in the clutch basket. The BAKER hydraulic feed port is designed to work with aftermarket style banjo fittings and bolts and is not compatible with the CVOTM style straight entry, formed end hydraulic line. As such, you may need to purchase a few additional parts, listed below.

2013 - 2017 ALL NON-M8 MODELS (HYDRAULIC PISTON) REQUIRE:

• Hydraulic line adapter with fitting (BAKER P/N 432-RV07-A)
• Includes 1x banjo bolt and 2x banjo washers

The BAKER Hydraulic Side Covers will fit the following models right out of the box:

• 91-99 EVO Softails, Dyna & FXR’s
• 2000-2006 Twin Cam Softails
• 1998-2006 BAKER OD6, DD6 & DD5 Models
• 2000-2005 Dyna

2006 - 2012 CD6 MODELS (MECHANICAL BALL & RAMP) REQUIRE:

• 11/16” bore hydraulic clutch lever (master cylinder) assembly
• AN-3 hydraulic line for your make and model
• 2x 3/8”-24 banjo bolt
• 2x 10mm banjo fitting
• 4x banjo washers

2006 - 2012 CVOTM MODELS (HYDRAULIC PISTON) REQUIRE:

• AN-3 hydraulic line for your make and model
• 1x 3/8”-24 banjo bolt (re-use 1 already on bike)
• 2x 10mm banjo fitting
• 4x banjo fitting washers
• Clutch release pushrod (P/N 37092-06)
• Adjuster screw (P/N 37090-98A)
• Jam nut (P/N 7848W)
• Release plate (P/N 37903-90)
• Retaining ring, internal (P/N 37909-90)

INSTALLATION

DISSASSEMBLY

1. Securely support your motorcycle on a bike lift or jack and drain the transmission fluid. Refer to your Factory Service Manual for the location of your drain plug.
2. Depending on the style of exhaust that you have on your motorcycle, the exhaust may need to be removed at this time to allow access to the transmission side cover.
3. If you have a mechanical ball and ramp style side cover, remove the clutch cable and clutch lever (master cylinder) at this time. If you have a 2006-2012 CVOTM model, remove only the hydraulic line from the clutch lever (master cylinder) at this time. You will be replacing these in a later step.
4. Unbolt the side cover from the transmission. Remove the stock side cover, as well as the factory clutch actuator rod, and set aside.
5. Remove the derby cover and back off the jam nut for the clutch adjustment. If you have a CVO^TM model, remove the clutch rod and snap ring at this time.
6. Wipe down the gasket surface of the bearing door and inspect to make sure it is free of residual oil, old gasket material and debris.

MILWAUKEE-EIGHT® MODELS ONLY

1. Remove the mainshaft and countershaft retaining nuts on the end of the shafts. Hold the rear brake or shift the bike into gear to keep the transmission from spinning.
2. Thoroughly clean the threads on both shafts and on the supplied retaining nuts. Use a rag and brake cleaner, lacquer thinner, or equivalent.
3. Install the supplied mainshaft and countershaft retaining nuts with red thread lock. Install the nuts so that the chamfer faces outward (see figure 3).
4. Torque both retaining nuts to 75-85 ft-lb. Hold the rear brake or shift the bike into gear to keep the transmission from spinning.

FIGURE 3 | RETAINING NUT INSTALLATION
CHAMFER FACING OUT ON BOTH NUTS

INSTALLATION

1. Install the supplied side cover gasket on the bearing door. Place the provided clutch actuator rod assembly into the hole in the end of the mainshaft on the right side of the bike.
2. Remove the hydraulic piston from the side cover. Tip – Place the side cover on a towel or rag with the back side facing down. Use the light touch of an air blow gun in the hydraulic feed port to push the piston out of its bore and onto the towel/rag.
3. Bathe the piston in brake fluid, making sure the O-rings are fully coated. You must use the correct type of brake fluid for your make and model (see compatibility chart on page 3).
4. Double check that the inside of the side cover, especially the hydraulic bore, is free of dirt and debris. Clean with shop air or brake cleaner/lacquer thinner if necessary.
5. Coat the inside walls of the hydraulic bore with the same brake fluid that you used to lubricate the O-rings. Gently slide the piston back into the side cover until it bottoms out. Take care to not force the piston into place – you don’t want to damage the O-rings on the edge of the hydraulic bore.

Place the side cover onto the bearing door using the 3/16” dowels for proper positioning.
Using the provided fasteners, torque the side cover bolts to 130 in-lb using blue thread lock. Refer to the proper torque sequence to the right (figure 4).
Route the hydraulic line to the side cover, making sure there are no kinks. Torque the 3/8”-24 banjo bolt to 17-22 ft-lb. Note: All ball and ramp & 2006-2012 CVOTM models require a new hydraulic line. 2013-2017 non M8 models will require a hydraulic line adapter, P/N 432- RV07-A.

9. If you have converted from a mechanical to a hydraulic system, install the clutch master cylinder and the banjo bolt with washers.
10. Bleed the hydraulic clutch system.

FINISH LINE

1. Fill the transmission with 32 oz. of transmission fluid. Re-install the exhaust. Double check that all fasteners are tight on the motorcycle, any ancillary parts that you removed to perform this installation are back in their intended place on the motorcycle, and that your hydraulic clutch fluid line is secured to the motorcycle frame.
2. Once a short maiden voyage has been made around the block or down the road, take the time to double check all fasteners and hydraulic fittings for tightness. Make sure that you have no leaks around the side cover or on any part of the hydraulic clutch system. With the bike securely on the kickstand and the transmission warmed up, double check the level of the transmission fluid. Drain off any excess fluid if the transmission is overly full.

BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SYSTEM

1. Before you can bleed the hydraulic clutch system, you must adjust the free play and rod length at the clutch. Loosen the bleeder valve on the side cover. Using an Allen wrench, run the adjuster bolt (center of the clutch) inboard until you can feel the piston bottom out in the side cover. You will also know that you have hit the bottom point as the clutch will begin the move. At the point where it is fully bottomed out, back the adjuster off 1/2 to 1 full turn. The closer to the 1 full turn that you adjust it to, the more reserve you will have in the lever before the motorcycle begins to move; the full engagement of the clutch will be proportionally closer to the end of the sweep of the lever. This amount can be adjusted to suit rider comfort and riding style. Tighten the jam nut to 120 in-lb while holding the adjuster screw from rotating.
2. Snug the bleeder valve and place a clear tube over the bleeder valve on the side cover. Run the tube into a clean container.
3. Stand the motorcycle upright so that the master cylinder on the clutch lever is level. Remove the master cylinder lid and gasket.
4. Add new brake fluid (per your make and model) to the master cylinder reservoir until the fluid level is at or below the full line. DO NOT OVERFILL THE MASTER CYLINDER.
5. Squeeze the lever 5-10 times. Open the bleeder valve on the side cover and clutch fluid should flow through the tubing. If not, keep pumping the lever as it may take a few minutes for the fluid to make it all of the way through the line and cover. Once fluid begins to flow through the clear tube, close the bleeder valve. It may be necessary to add more fluid at this time, even before any fluid begins to flow out of the clear tubing.
6. Squeeze the clutch lever and hold it against the handlebar to build up hydraulic pressure. Open the bleeder valve on the side cover about 1/2 turn. Clutch fluid will flow through the clear tubing. Close the bleeder when the clutch lever has traveled about 50-75% of its full travel. Wait for the clutch lever to return to its released position. Repeat this step until all air bubbles have been forced out of the system and there are no bubbles in the fluid within the clear tubing.
7. When the system has been fully bled and the clutch lever no longer feels mushy, fully tighten the bleeder valve on the side cover to 80 in-lb. It may be necessary to fill the fluid in the reservoir to the full line at this time. DO NOT OVERFILL THE MASTER CYLINDER.
8. Place the cover back on the master cylinder and tighten down according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Check to make sure that the hydraulic line is tight at the clutch lever and the side cover at this time.
9. Install the primary derby cover, referring to the Factory Service Manual for the proper torque sequence.